The development of the upper garment, known as the kurta, probably
began in the nineteenth century and it is, at present, a popular
garment among men of Rajasthan. The length and girth of the kurta
may both vary from region to region and it can be tailored in a
variety of styles.
The kalidar kurta is made up of several geometrical pieces. It has
two rectangular central panels in the back and the front. The width
of these panels is equal to the shoulder size and the length varies
from above the thigh to below the knees. Four, flared-side panels
called kali, are attached on either side of the central panels.
Their shape is roughly triangular, narrow at the top and wider at
the bottom to achieve the desired fullness. This ensures a snug fit
around the chest which lends the lower part a loose-flared fall.
Comfort is further emphasized by deep slits at the side seam. The
sleeves, which are generally full-length, are also rectangular.
They are cut square at the top and the armholes are set somewhat
deep. Small triangular gussets are inserted under the arms and the
sleeves taper very slightly towards the wrist. The neck of the
kurta is usually round; although it may sometimes also have a
Chinese collar and most garments have a side pocket.
The centre front-opening has a placket with buttons and buttonholes
as closures. Sometimes, buttonholes are made on both sides of the
placket, into which are inserted silver or gold buttons, which are
held together by ornamental chains.